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EK News Article
by Eric Kent:
The
main walk was the Whita Hill a circular at Langholm (8.3
miles).The alternate walk was circular round the outlying
areas of the village of Canonbie which is close to the
Scottish border (8.5 miles). The weather on the day was
mainly warm and sunny. The Coach stopped at Canonbie to drop
off the alternate walkers who were trying out this new walk
route at Canonbie. This village was the main population
centre within the areas called the
Debatable Lands
when Scotland and England were separate Kingdoms. The
Debatable Lands extended from the
Solway Firth
near
Carlisle
to
Langholm
in
Dumfries and Galloway,
the largest population centre at that time was
Canonbie.
These Debateable Lands for over three hundred years were
effectively controlled by local
clans
known as the
Border Reivers
such as the
Armstrong’s
and
Elliot’s who successfully resisted any attempt by the
Scottish or English governments to impose their authority in
this unique area. The walk started at the River Esk and
continued northwards near to the river. Shortly after
passing over the bridge at the Byre burn the route turns in
a westerly direction along the locally known Fairy Loup
track and its waterfall. Once through the trees the route
turns south past Byreburnside farm and shortly past the farm
as you rise the route turns west along a track with great
views on a good day to the Bewcastle Fells and the Lake
District Hills. The route follows down past the
Rowanburnhead Farm and on to the award winning village of
Rowanburn. The village was originally a coaling mining
village and a group of the residents got together and
transformed the village into winning the best village award
for two years running in 1995 and 1956. At the west end of
the village the route goes south down past Rowanburnfoot and
then west along the banks of the Liddel Water which for much
of its course forms the border between Scotland and England
This water was also one of the boundaries of the
Debatable Lands.
The route turns northwards again at the point called Willow
Pool where the Liddel Water joins the river Esk. The walk up
the river Esk follows the fishermen’s path and some way
along this the walkers had difficulty with a herd of cattle
which was blocking the pathway. After some deliberation they
worked out a plan by going into an adjoining field a few of
the party walked up well back from the cattle on the field
side and came back down to the cattle and persuaded them to
move down the path past the gate which allowed the main
party and the cowpokes to get back on the river path. After
the car park area the walk keeps to the river up to the
Glebe and past the church wall and back to the bridge over
the River Esk where the walk commenced.
The
main walking party were dropped off at the area of Langholm
which is close to the old station and textile mill factories
and is adjacent to the Co-op Supermarket. Langholm was
originally called Arkinholm and was made a Burgh in 1621.
The town has long associations with the Lindsay and
Armstrong’s and much of the land in the area is owned by the
Duke of Buccleuch. Langholm is affectionately called “the
Muckle Toon”, muckle means big in Scots and you may wonder
why a town of 2500 souls merits this epithet. In the past,
however, the population was much larger, and Langholm was an
important market town and a centre for textiles and
agriculture. After crossing the A7 the walk route followed
road called Hall Path and keeping to the right along the way
you come to the end of the houses and on to the Jennie Noble
walk (This walk is name after an old lady who committed
suicide by hanging herself in the Gill). At the point where
the Noble route turns right in to the wooded Gill below we
continue straight along the wooded lane until the end of the
trees. After a few hundred metres the route heads left by an
obvious track uphill on to the moorland and follows the
track which turns close to the wooden telephone poles
crossing the moor. The walking on this section over a rough
track is hard as you continue to walk up the hill but is
worth it for the views back towards the Langholm and the
border hills and southwards to the Lake District and the
edge of the North Pennines. If you are happy with the rough
walking you can continue along following the poles and
descend to the metalled road on one of many rough tracks
before you come to the wooded area in the Glen or as we did
walk down in to the Tarras Valley at the first descending
track and walk along the metalled road to the bridge which
crosses the Tarras Water and takes you up the Tarras Valley
to Perterburn Farm where you can cross the Tarras Water
again by a ford if the water level is not to high.
Unfortunately the ford was not passable on the day of the
walk and we had to turn back to Perterburn Farmyard and
follow an alternative route to a footbridge which crosses
the Tarras Water and this rejoins the track on the other
side of the ford below Middlemoss farm. There is a lovely
open feeling about this area, and in spring and summer you
will usually hear curlew, skylarks and other birds. This
remote area was used extensively by the Border Reivers who
used the Tarras Moss as a retreat for their families and
livestock as in the old days of the border warfare much of
this area was not drained and the routes into it were not
easy to find. From Tarras Rig edge we followed the metalled
road up to the cairn and the metal open book memorial’s
celebrating the life of the Poet Hugh MacDiarmid. From there
we climbed up to the top of Whita Hill which is dominated by
a massive monument to Major General Sir John Malcolm who was
as soldier, statesman and Historian. The views from the top
the hill are panoramic in all directions and especially the
views down over Langholm and the Eskdale valley. From the
top of the hill we had a steep descent down in to Langholm
with wonderful views all the way down into the Town and the
end of the walk. We travelled back on the Coach to the
village of Canonbie where we joined the other walkers who
were enjoying their social hour w in the village hostelry.
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