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EK News Article: Eric Kent
Duncanrig Rambling Club set out to Oban in the
Argyll and Bute region on a 3-day walking and social
break. When the coach reached Connel on the road to
Oban we turned off onto the A828 and headed up by
the coast towards Appin in dry but slightly overcast
weather. The alternate walkers were dropped off at
Kinlochlaich farm on the outskirts of the village of
Appin. This group walked up the lovely scenic Glen
Stockdale and then down Salachan Glen to the coast
where they were picked up by the coach. The walk up
the glen is tough due to the ground conditions but
if you are lucky you may see sea eagle as they often
frequent this area. The main walk continued on in
the coach for a few miles to a point close to Appin
house and opposite the Island of Shuna where they
started on a coastal walk down past the Sound of
Shuna to the village of Port Appin. The scenery on
this walk was outstanding with views over Loch
Linnhe to the Morvern hills, the Isles of Lismore,
Mull and Shuna and not forgetting Castle Stalker
which was in view for most of the first part of the
walk. The castle, which is completely cut off at
high tide, was built in its present form around 1446
by the then Lord of Lorn, Sir John Stewart. Since
that time, the inhabitants of the castle have led
colourful lives often with murderous endings. The
other highlight of the walk was crossing the Jubilee
Bridge at the salt marshes on Loch Laich where you
get the best views over to Castle Stalker. This walk
finished at the Pier House hotel opposite the ferry
to Lismore where the walkers enjoyed the Hotel’s
comforts before being picked up by the coach and ten
travelling to our Hotel in Oban. On Saturday after
an overcast start we were blest with good weather
for the rest of the day. The main group returned to
Port Appin by coach and we crossed over to the Isle
of Lismore by the small passenger ferry. Port Appin
is also the terminus of a private ferry that runs
across Loch Linnhe to Glensanda on the Morvern
coast. This ferry allows local people to work in the
Glensanda super quarry. Glensanda involves the
quarrying of an entire granite mountain, Meall na
Easaiche, before transporting the pulverised granite
along a mile of conveyor belts in tunnels to a
jetty, where it is loaded directly into bulk
carriers. The walk started at the ferry and mainly
followed the western coast line with occasional
detours inland down past the remains of a lime kiln
to Port Ramsay village a beautiful group of terraced
white-washed cottages and as peaceful a settlement
as one could imagine. The village dates back to
around 1800 to provide homes for those working in
the lime and fishing industries was established in
the early 19th century to house workers in the local
lime-burning industry. Lime-burning was carried out
here until the outbreak of the First World War. Our
route from there passed the small cluster of houses
named Fennachrochan we followed the general
direction of the hills slightly above the coastline
and from there could catch sight of the fish farms
in the bay below. After a mile or so we descended
down close to the ruin of Coeffin Castle which was
built on the site of a
Viking
fortress. The name Coeffin is thought to come from
Caifen who was a Viking prince, and whose sister
supposedly haunted the castle until her remains were
taken back to be buried beside her lover in
Norway.
The walk continued on past a ruined township and
then on to the road which passes down the middle of
the island. We walked along this road past the
township of Balliveonlan and then down the Road to
Achnacroish Village where the car ferry from Oban
docks. The walking group split up at this point as
some of the walkers had a notion of the 50 minute
sail back to Oban on the next ferry. The remaining
walking group walked along the shore path up past
Castle Tirefour. This iron-age broch dates back 2000
years; once the walls would have been 15 metres high
as well as 3 metres thick. Once past the broch we
walked back to the ferry crossing to Port Appin
admiring the views over to the mainland from this
eastern side of Lismore. The alternative walker
chose the fifty minute sail over from the Oban by
the main ferry and walked along the eastern coast
route but passed by Loch Baile a Ghobhainn and then
later in their walk travelled over to Port Ramsey
and then round the coast to get the ferry over to
Port Appin. On Sunday the weather was overcast but
it only rained later in the day for a short period
so we considered that we were lucky with the weather
during the weekend . Both walks on Sunday involved
ferry travel on to the Island of Kerrera. The main
group travelled to the Kerrera ferry from Oban by
Coach and after the ferry crossing they walked up
the south side of the island along the coastline of
the sound of Kerrera past Upper Gylen and down to
Lower Gylen, which is both a tearoom and a
bunkhouse. The group enjoyed the teas and homemade
cakes at this watering hole. Close by is Gylen
Castle. The Castle was a stronghold of the
MacDougall's but fell to a siege in 1647 - although
the defences were impregnable, the lack of a water
supply led to its eventual downfall and ruin. There
are fine views at the castle across to the mainland
and the isles of Seil, Scarba, the Garvallachs and
Mull are superb and The walk continued past on past
Ardmore where there are more fine views across to
Mull,
Lismore
and the mountains of Morvern appearing at times on
the northern outlook of the walk back to point of
descent back to the ferry. The alternate walk left
the hotel in Oban and climbed up to the top of the
pulpit hill above the town to enjoy superb views of
the town and Oban Bay. The walk continued on an old
drove road to the Kerrera ferry and then from the
ferry walked up over the hill until we looking down
to Slatrach Bay we took the track forking to the
right and continued round on the northern side of
the island past Otter’s bay following the track down
to Ardentrive farm and bay and on to Hutcheson’s
Monument This giant obelisk was built in honour of
David Hutcheson in 1883; he was a manager of the
Burns shipping company that ran the first steamers
up the western seaboard, beginning in 1835. The
views in all directions and especially over Oban bay
and Oban from this point are superb. We returned
over a rough track on the eastern side of Kerrera to
the ferry. The social stop on the home ward journey
was at the Arrochar Hotel where the club had an
excellent meal. |