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EK News Article
by Eric Kent:
The last
Duncanrig Rambler walks were located in the England Scotland
border area at the River Tweed. The main walk was from
Norham Village in Northumberland and continued down to
Berwick on Tweed a distance of around 9.5miles. The
alternate walk commenced around 3 miles further down the
Tweed at the village of Horncliffe and continued on the same
route as the main walk into Berwick on Tweed a distance of
around 6.5 miles. The day started warm and sunny and we were
fortunate that the weather remained this way until we left
Berwick in the early evening. Norham is a quiet village
close the River Tweed and it owes its existence to the
nearby Norham Castle. The Castle was the scene of many
conflicts over the centuries, as the Scots have made many
attempts at taking the Castle. Some of these attempts were
successful. The last successful attempt was just before the
battle of
Battle of
Flodden Field
which we lost and the Castle then fell back into English
hands. The castle has another claim to fame as the painter
Constable made his name painting the castle scene which is
highly regarded and hangs in the Tate Gallery in London. We
soon left Norham behind and the walking was hard along the
edge of the River Tweed due to the steep and slippy ground
we had to follow most of the way to Horncliffe. This part of
the walk although harder than expected had its compensations
as we were travelling high above the river and we were able
to enjoy many excellent views over the river on to the
Scottish land. The River Tweed is 97 miles (156 km) long and
flows primarily through the
Borders
region of
Great Britain.
It rises on
Tweedsmuir
at
Tweed's Well
near where the
Clyde,
draining northwest, and the
Annan
draining south also rise. "Annan, Tweed and Clyde rise oot
the ae hillside" as the Border saying has it. It drains the
entire Borders region. Its lower reaches are near
Berwick-upon-Tweed.
The Tweed is one of the great
salmon
rivers of Britain. We had a short steep climb up into
Horncliffe where we passed through the edge of the village
which claims to be the most northerly village in England.
The walking after Horncliffe became easier as we left the
steep escarpment overlooking the Tweed behind. After some
pleasant walking along the riverside where we were fortunate
to see some herons we arrived at the Union Chain Bridge.
This bridge spans the
River Tweed
between
Northumberland,
England
and the village of
Fishwick
in the
Borders
region in
Scotland.
When it opened in 1820 it was the longest
wrought iron
suspension
bridge
in the world with a span of 137 metres (449 ft), and the
first vehicular bridge of this type. After crossing the
Bridge we had our lunch in Scotland and then walked along by
the side of the river for a short distance where we entered
the grounds of Paxton House a country house built in 1758 by
Patrick Home who started the build in an unsuccessful
attempt to woo a Prussian heiress. A short way into the
estate we came upon the fish boat house which was used to
store the netting boats that were used to catch huge
quantities of salmon. These were then stored in the cool and
damp estate fish store house before being sent to Berwick.
In earlier times the salmon were salted and packed in
barrels and sent to London by sea and in later years the
salmon were packed in ice which was gathered locally and
stored in ice houses during the winter. The ice packed
Salmon and then sent from Berwick by sea to London. Famous
early customers for Tweed Salmon included Edward the second
who sent orders in 1308 for 3000 barrels of Salmon for his
army who were marching north to Scotland. The grounds of the
Paxton estate along the river side were very picturesque and
we all enjoyed walking through the woodland along the edge
of the River Tweed. Shortly after leaving the estate we
crossed the border into England again. The walk continued
over some pleasant walking ground on water meadows until we
reached Whiteadder Water slightly above the point where it
joined the Tweed. This slight diversion allowed us to cross
over on a very twisted bridge platform which initially
seemed alarming but was adequate for the walkers to cross
safely. We soon passed under the A1 road where it crosses
over the Tweed and we could now see in the distance Berwick
and the impressive Royal Border Railway Viaduct which were
around 2.5 miles away. After crossing some tidal meadows we
entered into some woods were the walking was made difficult
due to the wet and often muddy paths. These difficulties
soon passed and the walking condition got better as we
closed in on the Berwick town walls. One final climb to
complete the walk got us up to the town walls at the railway
station which is built on the site of the Medieval Castle
where Robert Bruce's claim to the Scottish Throne was
originally declined, and John Balliol's accepted. Berwick
was one of the most wealthy trading ports in Scotland,
providing an annual customs value of £2,190, equivalent to a
quarter of all customs revenues received north of the
border. By the middle of the 13th century, was considered a
second Alexandria, so extensive was its commerce." However,
Berwick appended its signature to King
John Balliol's
new treaty with France, England's old enemy, and on 30 March
1296,
Edward I
stormed Berwick after a prolonged siege,
sacking it
with much bloodshed. His army slaughtered almost everyone
who resided in the town, even if they fled to the churches,
some eight thousand inhabitants being put to the sword.
"From that time the greatest merchant city in Scotland sank
into a small seaport." The walking group enjoyed our social
hour in Berwick before returning back to East Kilbride by
Coach.
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